Samstag, 13. April 2013

Step by step: How I painted the rust on an armour of the rotting god


Here I am rocking like a hurricane! Ah okay, not really but I just wanted to give you this little step by step, as I haven't posted posts with real hobby content for a while.

So here it starts:

This article is on how I did the rust on this miniature:

First I painted in some areas a small but opaque layer of scorched brown. I then started to paint dots with thinned down an reddish brown, then with sneake bite leather, and then with bubonic brown on this layer. I think you could even use orange, yellow and red tones for that. Heres how it looked for me:

Then I tried to bind the rusty areas into the rest of the armour with a glaze/wash of Vallejo Smoke (a nice brown tone for rust). I started with my brush on the metal area and shoved the paint into the rusty area. Here's how it looked afterwards:

I then started to use pigments mixed with plaster to get a three dimensional rust layer. I got this idea out of an article in the "Art of Modelling Magazine" ( for three dimensional mud on tanks. So as a base tone I took a heap of pigments and mixed them with a small heap of plaster (I tried this technic the first time, so the right amount of plaster in the mix was just a feeling in my stomache). As plaster is white, its lightens the tone of the pigments a bit up. So don't choose a too bright colour before mixing it with plaster for your pigment base tone. I also chose some pigment tones as highlights and shadows. These weren't mixed with plaster. See the tones I chose:

I took two small bruhes, one for applying the pigments, one for the pigment fixer I used to fix them on the mini. I took small heaps of the basetone/plaster mix and put them on the rusty areas, so that there were three dimensional heaps of the mix on the rusty areas. I then took the other brush, loaded it with pigment fixer and touched an area with it next to the pigments, never on a heap as I wanted to keep it's structure. The pigment fixer just runs off the brush and spreads itself over the surface and the pigments. I received this result:

Next step was to set some lights and shadows into these three dimensional rust areas. This was done with the light tones and shadow tones from the photo above. As I already mentioned, the light tones and the shadow tone weren't mix with plaster, as they were only for bringing some contrast into the rust. I think you can imagine how I applied the lights and shadows, the light tones on the areas which are directly in the zenithal light and the shadow tone into the areas which are in the dark. So for a three dimensional big rust bump I painted light tones on the upper side and the shadow tone on the bottom. Also I placed small dots of light and shadow tones here and there on the rust area, of cause for contrast. All was fixed after every step with pigment fixer. This is how it looked:

As the pigment fixer ate away some of the contrast I achieved by applying light and shadow tones, I plan to paint them again without the pigment fixer, as a last step when the miniature is on the base I got in mind for it and still have to build.

I will of cause show you then pictures of the finished miniature and may be also a step by step of the base.

So hope you liked this step by step.

Any critics are welcome.

Beepob, Hip Hop, Flip Flop, BYE!


  1. Beebop, hip hop, flip flop - tip top!
    Nice tut Mr. TIE fighter :D

  2. Great little tutorial here! Very nice effects and final look/feel to it. Will be coming back to this one for sure!